Bon Echo Memorandum of Understanding

General
The protection of provincially significant elements of the natural and cultural landscapes of Ontario is the overriding objective of the Provincial Park system. At Bon Echo Provincial Park, the spectacular sheer cliff on Mazinaw Lake epitomises just such a landscape. Rock and ice climbing has been a long tradition at Bon Echo, pre-dating the 1965 Park opening. Enthusiasts of the sport consider the cliff here to be one of the best climbing locations in Ontario. Cooperation and mutual respect has always prevailed between the climbing community and the Park.
The need for formal agreement between the Toronto Section of the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) and the Park has been outlined in the Bon Echo Provincial Park Management Plan, 1991. Changes in the overall nature of climbing, as well as growing concerns over protection of the physical, cultural and ecological features of the cliff itself, dictate that a formal strategy of management is required. In addition to being a much acclaimed climbing site, the sheerness of the cliff at Bon Echo is the premiere location in Ontario for certain spelunking training exercises coordinated by the Toronto Caving Group (TCG). For the purpose of this MOU, the ACC is empowered to negotiate on their behalf.
During 1995, resource inventories of the cliff face and cliff top were carried out to assess the impact of climbing on the natural and cultural resources and to document values at risk. These inventories will assist in developing a management strategy and formal plan..
This Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) between the two named principals is designed to safeguard the cliff resources while permitting climbing to continue. It provides interim guidance for the use of the cliff while a climbing management plan is prepared to the mutual satisfaction of the climbing community represented by the Toronto Section of the Alpine Club of Canada, and the Ministry of Natural Resources. Items outlined in this MOU may serve as a framework for the formal agreement.
This MOU is subject to review and amendment by the mutual agreement of the two principal parties. This Memorandum of Understanding is in effect until May 1, 2004.

Principles and Ethics
Climbing will be secondary to the protection of the cliff's important geological, biological and cultural heritage. A leave no trace ethic will be the guiding principle by which all issues will be addressed.

Route Closures
Climbing routes previously closed for the protection of the area immediately surrounding the Peregrine Falcon release project were reopened June 13, 1997.
In the event that new areas are deemed sensitive to climbing activity, it is understood that any route or routes may be closed at short notice. This may be due to information derived from inventories and surveys, or from other sources. In particular, a small number of climbing routes pass close to, or over, native pictographs. To protect these pictographs from accidental contact, the routes in question are closed indefinitely. Since these particular routes were seldom used, the route closures will be made known to the climbing community in future publications, newsletters and bulletins, but signs shall not be placed on the cliff. (appendix 1)
Until a full assessment and a final decision is made on climbing, climbers are not permitted to attempt new routes.

Specific Climbing Practices
Many of the universal issues under debate in the climbing world must also be addressed at Mazinaw Rock. Compliance to certain climbing practices must be encouraged and are essential to the conditions of this MOU. These include but are not necessarily limited to:

• The use of old-growth cedars on the cliff face or cliff top for belay or rappel anchors is prohibited.
• Except for emergencies, rappelling will be prohibited. Specific locations suitable for training purposes, or to ease environmental impact, may be agreed upon by the committee after environmental inventories and surveys have been consulted. These specific locations will be selected with consideration for safety and environmental protection. (appendix 2)
• The annual winter Tyrolian Highline exercise, coordinated by the TCGis subject to:
  
  1. the park receiving prior written notice of dates and times,
  2. arrangement of a site inspection to assess impact on the resources and adherence to safety measures
  3. filing of a “Notice to Airman” (NOTAM)
• Every effort must be made to retrieve abandoned climbing equipment from the cliff face. All incidents of abandoned gear and reasons why it has not been removed will be documented.

Anchor Bolts
In general, the installation of bolts on the face or top of the cliff will be prohibited. It is understood that bolts may be required in particular circumstances to enhance safety and to prevent damage to trees currently being used as anchors. The following points must be considered:

• The Park Superintendent must be advised if existing bolts must be replaced for safety.
• A working committee consisting of selected ACC representatives and Parks staff will assess the need for any new bolts. This committee will be responsible for decisions regarding the location and type of bolts to be used. Only members of this committee, or persons directed by this committee, will be permitted to carry out the installation of any new bolts.
• This committee will ensure that any new bolts are placed with discretion. Due regard for environmental and aesthetic aspects, as well as the character of the climb, will be major considerations for any new placements.

Resource Protection and Erosion Control
Cooperation between the ACC and MNR in erosion control measures along cliff-top trails should continue. Preliminary steps have been made to mitigate existing erosion damage at the main descent route. Further projects in the management and protection of the cliff's resources will be undertaken in the spirit of cooperation.

Information and Education
The ACC will be responsible for disseminating information to its members, and the climbing community in general, regarding climbing restrictions at Bon Echo. This will be accomplished by postings at the Club hut, in newsletters, or by other means as required.
Efforts must be made to educate ACC members, and the climbing community in general, to understand and comply with any restrictions. A fact sheet will be produced co-operatively and made available for distribution to ACC members and to other climbers in general. Fact sheets will also be available at the Park office and the ACC hut.
The ACC may provide club literature to the park which will be included in any of the climbing information "packages" which the park distributes.

Liability
Waiver of liability forms will be signed by all climbers at Bon Echo. Waiver forms will be available at the ACC hut and the Park office. A common form, will be designed and used which protects both principal parties and the Ministry of Natural Resources, irrespective of the participants point of entry into the park. Arrangements for ensuring that all persons intending to climb at Bon Echo fill out a waiver form will be worked out between the ACC and the Park.

Monitoring
The park does not have the resources to carry out routine patrols of the cliff and adjacent areas on the top of the cliff. However, periodic security patrols will be made and the tour boat staff will be properly trained to deal with and/or report any suspected violations. The ACC should set out a schedule for routine monitoring of cliff use and possible degradation of the resource by climbers. These responsibilities include:

• The designated Hut Custodian, when shuttling climbing parties to the start of routes, should ensure that restricted climbing areas are respected and that climbing is being practiced in an approved manner.
• A register of all climbers, with names, dates and routes climbed should be kept at the ACC hut to document use. This information may be used by the Park in several ways:
  • future correlation of use patterns to possible environmental impacts on specific routes.
  • personal information on climbers involved can assist in the education of, and compliance with, specific climbing practices.
  • park use statistical information.
• A method for registration and identification will also be developed to ensure that all climbers have signed a waiver of liability form and are aware of all climbing practices and restrictions.

Accidents, Safety & Rescue Procedures
The following MNR policies and procedures are directly relevant to the issue of safety at Bon Echo. These are currently in effect and apply to all provincial parks:
Policy 2.27 Emergency Plans February 1, 2003
Procedure 2.27.01 Search and Rescue Operations in
Provincial Parks May 1, 1999
Bulletin 2.27.01 Reporting Park Visitor Accidents and
Fatalities June 1, 2001
Policy 2.47 High Risk Activities by Organised
Groups in Provincial Parks April, 1994
Policy 2.48 General Liability in Provincial Parks June, 1987
Any incidents of injury requiring medical attention must be reported to the park immediately. Similarly, any rescue efforts must be reported to the park. It should be acknowledged that the park does not have special resources, skills or equipment to handle technical rescues, but will contact the local Ontario Provincial Police detachment, CFB Trenton Search and Rescue, or other authorities as required.

Conclusion
It is hoped that this interim arrangement will be carried out in a spirit of cooperation which may form the basis for the long-term management of the cliff's unique natural, cultural and recreational resources.

Original signed by:

B. Bateman, Park Superintendent
Bon Echo Provincial Park
RR #1
Cloyne, Ontario, K0H 1K0

Paul Geddes, Access Chair
Alpine Club of Canada, Toronto Section
1652 Sir Monty’s Drive
Mississauga, Ontario, L5N 4R4

Appendix 1 - Route Closures
Routes closed due to proximity to native pictographs:
5. Mediterranean Sundance
12. The original first pitch of The Last Shall Be First *
18a. Alternative first pitch of Nilevan *
42. Brass Monkey
43. Monkeyshines
83. Spiderman
84. Flat Paint
89. Black Groove
Note that beyond these specific closures, caution must be taken when any pictograph is encountered along the base of the cliff. Also refer to “Sharing Crags with Raptors”, produced by the Access Fund, for information on how to deal with Peregrine Falcon encounters on climbing routes or on the cliff top.

Appendix 2 – Approved Rappel Stations
These locations are approved for rappelling using anchor bolts placed for this purpose. These stations are identified by the closest climbing route. Rappelling from cedars or other trees is prohibited.:
11. Thunder Crack
23. The Slab (at the top of the first pitch)
60. The Easy Way Down (bolts not yet installed)
62. Formication
73. Saucer Lucy
34. The Joke (81m free hanging drop used by TCG)
83. Spiderman (62m free hanging drop used by TCG)
In addition to the approved rappel sites listed above, approval is granted to the TCG for the Tyrolean Highline (winter) exercise, subject to the conditions outlined in the 1998 MOU and any other conditions that may be deemed necessary or appropriate by the Park at the time of the site inspection.

* removed from this edition of the guidebook.