Bancroft Eagles Nest Ice condition - Thin but IN

The ice is thin all over the usual spots on the cliff with 2 to 3 inches avg. I would say that the ice is patchy and thin but some climbs in my judgment (from the bottom) are climbable, especially since we havent had much snow yet and the ice is easy to see.

Rollercoaster is thin but definately climbable right now, the curtain is about 6 inches thick and climbable if you are good with thin. Dirty Harry is patchy - not in. The first pitch of the Eiger on climbers left is not in, climbers right variant is a thin sheet. The second pitch of the eiger looks good and may actually be entertaining right now (instead of a low angle snow slog). Crystal tower ? WI2 is thin but in.

So I guess my main message is "thin but in" at the eagles nest! Before you come out just watch the temps and make sure that they stay in the negative as a quick warm up would send it all tumbling down.

Looks to be a good year of ice on the horizon! Let us all make the best of it; stay safe and keep your head screwed on!

Ice climbing is dangerous - I take no responsibility for your actions on ice so take my condition reports only as a guideline. Something I may deem fit to climb may be viewed differently to others. Use your best judgment always!


Took a look today and the

Took a look today and the ice is getting fatter!

Dirty Harry is still not in. The curtain actually looks like it would take some pro. Jetstream is about 1/2 way down the face.

Lots of snow here now (about 30cm) so finding thin ice will take excavation!


Ice is still good! Is

Ice is still good! Is anybody reading this....?


Re: Ice is still good

Thanks for the updates rocklobster - they are much appreciated (and I know that I'n not the only one who thinks the same way). I've actually been checking this website daily for updates, but only checking the front page for new threads. I hadn't realised that you'd posted updates under your original post. Now that I know better, I'll be checking twice a day. :) Keep them coming.
Time to get the tools out!

Danylo


Update: Last Friday night

Update:

Last Friday night (nov 21) I went out and climbed roller coaster. The condition of the ice was superb - nice and thin! It was just really good to get out and use some muscles that had become dormant over the summer months.

Another party of climbers were out on Saturday and climbed roller coaster and hidden gully, I think that they had a good time as well.