Approach Directions for Ice Climbs

Hello Jen,
Welcome to the wonderful world of ice climbing in Southern Ontario. The ice is nice, but tends to be on the shorter side (under 25m) and the crags are scattered all over the place. Unfortunately we have our share of access problems as well, with some good crags (Kenissis, Rosseau) closed to climbing.
The guidebook you are looking for is called "Southern Ontario Ice", by Kartner & Bracken, Borealis Press, 1995, ISBN 0-9699283-0-0. You can order it from the MEC - Mountain Equipment Co-op (mec.ca). It has driving directions to most of the crags (but you'll still need a good road map).
A good general description to ice climbing in Southern Ontario can be found on this website. Unfortunately most of the ice climbing links don't work. Fortunately, the old site with guidebooks updates (and a general map; and some driving directions) can still be found on the web at http://old.climbers.org/ice/newice.html . More recent updates (and conditions) are being kept up by Andriy Kolos on his website http://www.kolos.ca/andriy/ontario%20ice/Aug%2008-%20newiceroutes%20Ontario.pdf and http://www.kolos.ca/andriy/ontario%20ice/Ice%20Cond%200809/ice0809.htm .
Some general pointers and recommendations on areas (completely subjective):
1) The closest ice for you coming from Detroit is in Hamilton, where there are 4-5 decent waterfalls, but they need a solid freeze to form (usually only from mid January to mid February) and you need sign a waiver form and pay a $30 administrative fee to the local conservation area to climb 2 of the better ones (Tiffany, Felkers; don't bother with Tews - it never forms). Info, waivers etc - here: http://www.conservationhamilton.ca/parks/outdoor/Ice_Climbing_Fact_Sheet.asp .
2) Popular and/or notable crags in Haliburton area(3 hours north of Toronto):
a) Kushog: 4-5 routes; close to road.
b) Raven Lake: 6-7 routes in a good year - more than listed in the guidebook - but there is some confusion over what is what; and you have to cross country ski in for 30-40 minutes, or snowshoe.
c) Bear Lake: longest and hardest routes in Southern Ontario (55-70m; a couple of honest WI5s and several easier 3s and 4s). A long way to drive (3+ hours) plus an hour's snowshoe in.
3)Notable crags in Madawaska Highlands/ Bancroft area (3 hours northeast of Toronto):
a) Eagle's Nest - in Bancroft itself. 2 minute approach, consistent ice, 10+ routes of good length of all grades, including the classic Rollercoaster WI2 and Dirty Harry WI4. A good place to start. The southern section of the Eagle's Nest is closed to climbing. Bow lake, just before Bancroft also has some good ice.
b) Diamond Lake (another half hour past Bancroft): probably the highest concentration of ice in Southern Ontario, 15+ routes of varying grades and lengths (up to 40m).
Conditions can still be quite spotty in early January. The season has gotten off to a fairly good start. However, currently there is a problem with the lake crossings (you need to cross frozen lakes to get to most of our ice climbs) - a lot of snow fell before the lake ice had a chance to freeze up solidly, and is now acting as an insulating layer preventing solid freezing). Hopefully, things will freeze up solid in the next two weeks (it's sometimes useful to check snowmobile trail conditions).
Enjoy the climbing.
Danylo