Sherborne Lake - More New Ice Routes
Here's an update on new ice routes that were put up at Sherborne Lake this year (and a few from previous years).
First a few maps (click on them for larger images):
Sherborne Lake Approach Topo Map
Sherborne Lake Ice Routes Map
All the recent new routes are short - some are pleasant little romps, others are steep and thin (I wouldn't have led some of them). There is now something at Sherborne to please most everybody, although the Highlander (WI 5, 40m) is still definitely the main attraction.
The first set of new ice routes (Dumb and Dumber, Laurel and Hardy, Elvis Lives, White Fang, Goldfinger) is not visible from the lake. These flows can be reached in two ways:
a) After crossing the portage from Big Hawk Lake head right uphill through the trees to the cliff-line. Follow the cliff-line left (NW) for some 75m until you hit an obvious fat, easy-angled flow – Dumb and Dumber.
b) After crossing the portage head down Sherborne Lake to the base of the climbs Beach Boys and Good Vibrations (which I described last year here: http://www.climbers.org/forum/2008/04/10/sherborne-lake-belated-new-routes-update ), go past them to the right to the cliff-line and head right (SW) for some 75m until you hit a thin, vertical, yellow-tinged column – this is Goldfinger.
Descriptions:
Dumb and Dumber, WI 2, 14m FA David Broadhead, Danylo Darewych (March 14, 2009)
Location: This flow is the right-most (southern-most) flow at the crag. It is not visible from the lake, as it is hidden behind trees. It’s a fat, easy-angled rightward-leading flow that narrows at the top. Seems to come in consistently every year. Easy access to the top of the crag, if you’re interested in setting up a top-rope on the harder routes in the immediate area.
Laurel and Hardy, WI 2+, 14m, Sherborne Lake, March 14, 2009
Elvis Lives!, WI 3+/ 4-, 12m, Sherborne Lake, March 14, 2009Laurel and Hardy, WI 2+/ 3-, 14m FA Danylo Darewych, Catherine Ranger (March 8, 2008)
Location: Some 20m left and around a bit of a corner from “Dumb and Dumber.”
A fat flow with a less vertical, easier (WI2) left side and a taller, more vertical right side (WI3-), both of which lead to a nice stance below a final vertical step to the top. Seems to come in consistently.
Elvis Lives!, WI 3+/ 4-, 12m FA Danylo Darewych, David Broadhead (March 14, 2009)
Location: 10m left of Laurel and Hardy.
A thin, narrow flow; it’s near-vertical at the start, then eases off gradually. Short screws useful. This climb is not always in climbable shape (later in the season is probably better).
I know Elvis lives, because he possesses my legs every time I lead up anything remotely vertical or thin.
Danylo on White Fang, WI 4, 12m, Sherborne Lake, March 14, 2009
Goldfinger, WI 4+, 12m, Sherborne Lake, January 24, 2009White Fang, WI 4, 12m FA David Broadhead, Danylo Darewych (March 14, 2009)
Location: 5m left of Elvis Lives!
A straight-up, thin vertical curtain that hangs free in the bottom half; only one column normally touches down. Pumpy. Does not always come in (later in the season is probably better).
Goldfinger, WI 4/4+, 12m FA David Broadhead, Curt Merritt (January 24, 2009)
Location: 15m left (and past a corner from White Fang).
A vertical column with a golden streak in it, very thin at the bottom. (Dave: “I had to scratch footholds as the bottom fell off at first touch, then set tools high and campus up to the highsteps”)
Snatch, WI 2+, 15m, Sherborne Lake, March 8, 2009Another new route, Snatch, was put up further down the lake on the cliff past Turning Japanese/ Rhymes with Art (see last year's updates for these), but before you turn uphill to get to Highlander. Visible as a wide rolling blue flow from the lake.
Snatch, WI 2+ 15m FA Justin Bryant, David Broadhead (March 8, 2009)
Climb the wide rolling flow that trends leftward past a single small tree that sticks out of the middle of the flow at around half height.
Also, here's a couple of routes that were put up several years, but whose descriptions disappeared when the server crashed.
Ukrainian Mafia, WI 2, 15m, Sherborne Lake, March 18, 2005
Michael Bryant leading The Falls, WI 2+/ 3+, 12m, Sherborne Lake, March 18, 2005Ukrainian Mafia, WI 2, 15m FA Michael Bryant, Danylo Darewych (March 18, 2005)
Location: Along the main cliff-line where it cuts away from the lake at a 90º angle, three-quarters of the way up the slope to Highlander. Not really visible until you’re next to it.
A fat, easy-angled flow that spills down a left-leading ramp (and around 2 trees). The route does not go to the top of the cliff, but ends on a wide platform. Michael attempted a mixed line to the top of the cliff (Chicken Run), but was stumped by a lack of pro on the final several metres.
The Falls, WI 2+/WI 3+, 12m FA Dave Fortier, Wally Malicki, Scott Holt (February 2000)
Location: 75-100m due west of Highlander (not on the same cliff band). Walk another 50m down the lake past the point where you would turn right to follow the cliff band up to Highlander and then turn right into the trees. It is some 50-75m up a slight slope. It’s just barely visible from the lake, if you keep a sharp eye out.
Description: A fat flow with an easier-angled left side and steep, chandeliery right side. Seems to form consistently.
Photo credits: Photos of Laurel and Hardy, Elvis Lives, White Fang, and Goldfinger by David Broadhead. Photo of Snatch by Justin Bryant. Photos of Ukrainian Mafia and The Falls by Danylo Darewych
All these updates will appear compiled on Andriy's website at http://www.kolos.ca/andriy/ontario%20ice/Aug%2008-%20newiceroutes%20Ontario.pdf or I can send you a file with all of them if you're interested.
Have fun.
Danylo Darewych
