Raven Lake - Sunday, January 24, 2010
Twisted Staircase
Wet SherpaNorthern Cliff:
•Twisted Staircase - There is ice in the broad gulley, but doesn't look like a whole lot on the bulges heading back left.
•Wet Sherpa - in good shape, with protectable ice (short screws) both in the corner and on the slab further right. The direct exit was thin, sunbaked and rotten, but some of the exit pillars further right were solid.
Janet on top section of Wet Sherpa; Pacific Unknown on right
This Ain't Muskoka
•Pacific Unknown - fair bit of ice, looked doable (didn't climb it).
•This Ain't Muskoka - ice looked good in the corner, thin on the slab (didn't climb it)
Danylo high on Stepladder
Mike leading Mr. Poe
•Also climbed a narrow line 30m right (south) of This Ain't Muskoka that's not in the guidebook or updates (don't know if it's been done before) with Janet Trost. Here's a name and a description for you:
Stepladder, WI 3, 32m
Located in a narrow semi-gully/groove about 30m right (south) of This Ain't Muskoka. The start lies slightly uphill from the lakeshore. The climb begins with a series of 3-4 ice steps that get progressively narrower, shorter, and steeper as you get higher (the last one is awkward as you have to by-pass a chockstone on the right). Continue on an easy-angled snice/rock groove/corner (I didn't use any rock pro) to exit on a final steep 5-6 metre headwall or exit on slightly easier ice to the left. We got down on rope-stretch from a tree right at the top of the climb on a single rope (but Janet wasn't sure if her rope was a 60m or 70m; I suspect it's a 60m). I found the route harder/more awkward than Wet Sherpa, but easier than Mr. Poe (and they're both graded 3+, so go figure), but the vertical sections arem't very tall, so WI3.
•Mr. Poe - in good shape. Lots of good ice.
Unknown Wall - I didn't get over there to take a look, but those that did said that it was not in. Very little ice and what little was there was rotten.
Hungry Man - Didn't go for a look, but it apears to be in, because a group of 5-6 climbers came from over there (unfortunately I didn't get a chance to talk to them, because I was at the top of the cliff).
Thanks to Fernando for some of the photos.
Access notes: We (Brian, Janet, Doug and I) parked at the public boat launch at the north end of Raven lake and snowmobiled in (a first for me - thanks Doug). The rest of the gang parked in the privately plowed cottagers' lot further south and ended up making a $5 contribution per car to the plowing effort. I'm not sure who they spoke with and whether they made any further access arrangements (check Andriy's site http://www.kolos.ca/andriy/ontario%20ice/Conditions2009/Ice0910.htm - he might have further info).
Conditions notes: I always assumed that Raven Lake takes a long time to freeze, since it is a large lake, but apparently it freezes up quickly (it was frozen by Dec 26 this year).
Danylo
