Lake Kushog, Saturday Dec. 11, 2010

Conditions:
Blue Pillar, Lake Kushog, Dec. 11, 2010Blue Pillar - narrow, awkward, pigeon-toe pillar at bottom; wet chandeliery mass up top (didn't climb it). Water was dripping down it at a good rate, so should build fast.














Caramel Coating - thick, yellow ice up both sides.Caramel Coating, Lake Kushog, Dec. 11, 2010












Right of Caramel Coating, Lake Kushog, Dec. 11, 2010
The smaller climb right of Caramel Coating (somebody needs to give this thing a name - it comes in almost every year; Sadly Unnamed?, Happily Unnamed? Maple Glazed?) - thin in the bottom half; doesn't quite reach top of cliff.












Blue Boy, Lake Kushog, Dec. 11, 2010
Blue Boy - not nearly as thick as later in the season, but more than thick enough to climb.














New Ice, Lake Kushog, Dec. 11, 2010 Jon Gullet and I also climbed a route between Blue Pillar and Caramel Coating (It's the right line in the photo, behind the falling over fir tree). It's a thin, narrow line, that goes up a ramp and then a couple of small steps and finishes up a right-facing corner beneath a dead-looking tree. I didn't do the last 3 metre straight-up exit to the dead tree, as the exit column was too thin, didn't reach the top of the cliff and needed mixed moves. I exited left onto a ledge above the corner. It would be worth going back for another look later - maybe it'll fatten up. An exit right onto another bigger column might be possible later as well if it touches down.
We didn't try the more obvious left line in the photo - looked overhangy and thin at the top and would have needed mixed moves to exit.
I've not seen any continuous ice lines on this section of cliff before. Has anyone else?






Acess/Parking:
The lake isn't frozen yet, so you have to access the climbs overland by going around the Fire House Restaurant at the Ox Narrows. The trail starts from their parking lot next to the big No Trespassing (unathorised cars will be towed) sign. We parked right in front of this sign and left a note on the door of the Firehouse saying we would be back later for burgers and beer. They were fine with this. Otherwise you are expected to pay for parking. You can inform them in advance a day before that you're coming by phone (toll free 866-440-4750) or email (firehouse at bellnet dot ca). The owners names are Jay and Anita.

Have fun out there. It's shaping up to be a great season. There's a lot of water in the system and the ice is really building fast.

Danylo