Kluke Lookout, Thursday, January 13, 2011

Ursus, Kluke Lookout, Jan. 13, 2011Reversus Operandi and Lepus americanusQuercus, Hystrix and Lontra, Kluke LookoutDanylo starting up Hystrix, Kluke LookoutPietro seconding the FA of Hystrix. Not bad for a first day on ice.Antonio on Quercus, Kluke Lookout
I went to Kluke Lookout on Thursday with Pietro (first day on ice) and Antonio.
Low snow condtions and an easy hike in for a change.
Ursus - in.
Reversus Operandi - in well start to finish
Lepus americanus - starts were in fat, middle section looked thinner, uppers
section in well.
Quercus - in well.
Lontra - somewhat bare on upper part - some turf sticks between ever smaller
blobs of ice.

Also did a new route just to the right (5m) of Quercus:
Hystrix (Porcupine) - WI3+, 20m (Danylo Darewych, Pietro Puzzuoli, Antonio Segura). Head up initial 4-5m vertical section (thin, bubbly) up and around thin pillar (awkward) onto big ledge/cave (this fills in later in the season; I knocked down a bunch of icicles as it was). Step delicately out right onto another vertical section (4-5m), then pick a line up easier-angled bulges (10m) before juniper-jumping for another 7-10m to a belay tree.

I almost blew off the initial section when a foot popped off a bubble as I was reaching for a screw. As a result I was a lot nervous on lead (close to hysterics :)) while making the step out right from the ledge (I felt like curling up into a ball; even Elvis made an appearance), so I used a full quiver of quills (4 screws in 5 feet - I have no shame; well, there were quite a few air pockets - that's my story and I'm sticking to it) for some extra courage.
(Ain't I clever with names?)

Danylo