Bancroft, Eagles's Nest Conditions and Access update, Saturday, January 15, 2011
Colin on Jetstream
Drew on Dirty Harry. Not bad for his first day on ice.I joined the ACC on Saturday at the Eagle’s Nest. The ice hasn’t fattened up from a couple of weeks ago. Looks like the water supply has been locked up solid by the deep freeze.
Conditions:
Rollercoaster – fat the whole way up.
Curtain – mostly solid sheet of ice all the way to Jetstream (one small gap). Jetstream variation is also touching down. Dry, brittle ice.
Blue Angel, North Face of the Eiger area – fat up top, but only one thin finger touching down.
Dirty Harry – In hard, nasty shape. Mixed and thin ice moves to start. Dry, dessicated ice at start of continuous ice. Better ice in the top half.
Hidden Gully – scrappy. Not a lot of ice or good screw placements.
Access.
Problems. The owner of the property at the base of Rollercoaster (which extends all the way to the foot of the cliff) is once again asking that people not cross his property to get to the Rollercoaster.
David Broadhead was approached by the landowner on Sunday morning. This is what Dave wrote about his 15 minute conversation with the landowner:
“He is very friendly. I wish all access issues started with a person like him. If so, we'd be running laps at Eugenia. He has no issues whatsoever with climbing. In fact, quite the opposite. Both he and his wife appreciate it and he even stated that he'd like to try it himself one day. This is a very good start, however, he wants to stop all access to Roller Coaster until the liability issues are worked out. I impressed upon him the current and historical value of climbing at the Eagle's Nest as it pertains to SO ice climbing. They appreciate it and have no desire to cut it off. They just want someone to contact them asap to set up a meeting between themselves, the town, the ACC and or the OAC so that liability/volume issues can be addressed. He has a copy of our waiver and has wishes to include himself in it as regards the releasing of liability statute. They are even prepared to ask the town to buy the back 20ft of their lot so that we can continue climbing! How cool is this guy? He has no desire to stop climbing on Blue Angel, NF of Eiger, Harry, Hidden Gulley or Ice Castle. He doesn't mind us climbing the other lines and then dropping TRs on the Curtain as none of this involves his property. Climbers in the meantime will have to approach via another path as the usual hike up and left by the telephone pole wanders over his property line.”
So, please stay off the Rollercoaster.
Danylo
