Lion's Head access information

Sport
Status

Area	Lion's Head
Status	Climbing is currently tolerated as a “non-conforming” activity.
Permit/waiver	No permit or waiver currently exists.
Location	From Main street in Lion’s Head turn East onto Moore street (the south end of town). Drive to the end of the road, there is a parking area on the right which accommodates 8-10 cars. There is additional parking along the south side of the street. Please do not block the road or any of the cottage driveways!
Description	Climbing at Lion’s Head is VERY SERIOUS. Most climbs at Lion's Head are 5.10 and above with extreme exposure. The crag is undercut in most places; access is normally from above, by means of a rappel to a hanging belay at the lip of the overhang. This can be very intimidating, particularly if you are not sure if you are rappelling in the right spot! Be prepared to jumar if for any reason you are unable to lead back to the top. Most (but not all) of the climbs at Lion's Head are bolted. The cliff faces north and receives sunlight only in the late afternoon; this makes the area pleasantly cool on a hot summer's day but often bone-chillingly cold the rest of the year, even well into the spring.
Issues/outlook	SENSITIVE
Site-specific rules	Be respectful and courteous to anyone that you encounter along Moore St., especially the residents. Specifically: Do not block the road or any Driveways. Only Park in the parking lot or along the South side of the road (make sure you are completely off the road). Drive slowly along Moore Street and do not blare music. Watch for pedestrians along the road. No camping, fires, or littering. Pack out all human waste.
Background	Please act respectably and responsibly to help ensure access. Maintaining good friendly relations with hikers and cottagers is critical to ensuring future access. Note: The Bruce trail is very near the top of the cliff in places, well within earshot of the climbers below.