Old Laughing Lady, Bon Echo (a WI hard 4, 40m)
Story by Andriy Kolos
Photos by Tiago Varella-Cid
"…in any condition it is a committing climb."
I have always been intrigued by the guidebook description "…in any condition it is a committing climb. It was well ahead of its time when first ascended…" I decided to postpone a visit. After running across the climb in Adcock's guide, then again in Ferguson's Gripped article I delayed my encounter some more, because the climbing looked way hard! Oh, she was laughing…
In mid January, however, friends looked for an engaging adventure. Roman had driven up from Pittsburgh to experience SO Ice. Danylo was keen. Tiago wanted some exercise in a beautiful environment. Both my brother and I were game for an experience of some sorts…
Friends looking for an engaging adventure
We left our homes in the early morning. Donuts vanished at alarming rates every time we stopped for gas (we managed to scare more than one Tim's patron). Although it was cold at the Bon Echo gate, the approach was bearable… We got to Lake Mazinaw and headed north, avoiding the unfrozen Narrows. The wind hit us with such force and cold, I nearly turned around and returned to the cars (science aside, it must have been 53 million below). Luckily, the climb was somewhat sheltered from the wind. The line looked huge: long, less than vertical, but had cauliflowers the size of medicine balls. Some were even larger… We walked off pretending to explore other sections of the cliff, but we were really moving to keep warm and waiting for the sun to hit the ice. I wondered whether or not there was ever a good time to approach an old laughing lady; there's just something creepy about that. I'm sure there's a good reason for this lady's laughter… I'm hoping it's not me she's laughing at…
I'm hoping it's not me she's laughing at …
The climb was a series of "snicy" cauliflowers that were attached to the main ice sheet. The ice sheet, however, was consistently thin, with the odd candled feature, so most sticks were into the vegetable-like features. Protection could be placed from stances, and was a matter of deciding which mushroom was more likely to remain in place. The climbing was fun, but stressful. After bypassing a labyrinth of genetically modified super cauliflowers, I found myself standing below the Old Laughing Lady's Minotaur - a narrow, delicate, vertical pillar that led to the top. "That's funny", I thought, "it looked quite short from the ground!" About 35 m of double ropes dragged me downwards at this point. I chose to sneak around the beast, instead of engaging in combat - a flow led up under an overhang, and then left across the pillar to the exit. The ice at this point increased in quality and screws were finally reassuring. Although tricky, steep and exposed, the final moves didn't disappoint. High quality sticks led me up and over the top. But even then, she continued laughing; laughing at the amount of effort it took to get to know her…
I chose to sneak around the beast ...The Old Laughing Lady is located in Bon Echo Provincial Park. In any condition, it is a worthwhile climb that won't dishearten suitors; it will give you full value for the time spent getting there. All possible ice formations can (and will) be encountered, necessitating the use of a wide variety of skills on the ascent. Go meet her, but a word of advice: she rewards those that are gentle.
