Participant Guidelines and Trip Matrix (Ice climbing)
The Toronto Section Leadership Committee is developing a set of best practices to ensure that our section trips continue to be an enjoyable and safe, and meet the increasingly diverse needs of our members.
We have followed the example set by other sections, and developed a set of guidelines appropriate to the Toronto Section. Included are degrees of difficulty and trip classifications allowing both participants and coordinators to select and lead trips that suit their abilities and objectives.
Guidelines for Trip Participants
- Ensure that your membership for the Alpine Club of Canada is current.
- Understand and complete the liability waiver form.
- Remember that trips are designed to be experimental, informative and social, but not instructional.
- Sign up for trips that will challenge you, but are not beyond your abilities. If inexperienced, go on easier trips at first. Look at the trip classifications below prior to making your decision.
- Ensure that you have the necessary equipment and that it is in good condition.
- Try to learn about the location and available routes of a climbing area before you attend.
- Ensure that you register with the trip coordinator prior to the event. Do not just "show up" at the cliff.
- Understand that you are responsible for your own safety, and that safety is everyone's responsibility.
Please check classifications before signing up for a trip.
If you have any questions, be sure to contact the trip coordinator.
| Beginner | "A" Trip | Intermediate | "B" Trip | Advanced | "C" Trip | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Location: * | Hamilton area | W2 - WI4 | Dacks, NY | WI2 - WI5 | Rockies | WI4 - WI5 |
| Bancroft | W2 - WI4 | Orient Bay | WI2 - WI5 | Mt. Washington Area, NH | WI3 -WI5 | |
| Muskoka area | W2 - WI4 | Quebec | WI3 -WI5 | |||
| * Examples of climbing areas but by no means a comprehensive list ** Sport Areas |
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Trip Classifications
| "A" | Trip is suitable for beginner ice climbers. Participants are not required to lead but must have belaying skills. Mostly single pitch with an easy approach. Equipment requirements include harness, helmet, ice tools, boots, crampons, at least 1 locking 'biner, and a belay device (must not be a Grigri). |
| "B" | Trip is suited to ice climbers with experience following multipitch climbs. Participants must be able to belay a leader, clean gear, follow a route, have rope management skills and knowledge of anchors. Equipment requirements include harness, helmet, ice tools, boots, crampons, at least two locking 'biners and a belay device (must not be a Grigri). The approach may be longer possibly requiring snowshoes or skis. |
| "C" | Trip is suitable for ice climbers experienced in route finding and leading multipitch routes. Participants must have rope management skills including single, double or twin rope systems, ability to assess and build new anchors including the Abalakov anchor system. Equipment requirements include all personal gear, a rack with ice screws and Abalakov hookers. Participants must also have experience in rappelling and confidence with exposure, hanging belays, and some knowledge of first aid techniques and rescue systems. Trips may have a long approach, be in a remote area and could be up to a full day of 12 or more hours. Avalanche awareness and management is a must. |
WARNING: Ice climbing conditions and degrees of difficulty will vary from year to year and even day-to-day depending on weather, temperature, exposure to sun and other factors including route usage.
As always, if you have any questions about the details of a particular trip, please contact the trip coordinator in advance of the trip.
