Red Rocks: Recommended Climbs

Kit on top of Whiskey Peak: Kit on top of Whiskey Peak
Shorter Climbs
All the climbs on The Magic Bus  5.8 to 5.10 Bolts & trad
Ultraman Wall  5.7 to 5.8+ Bolts & slab
Space Case/Head Case/Hard Case 5.7/5.8/5.9 First two bolted
Spiderline 5.7 Usually sunny, trad
Ragged Edges 5.8 Full rope length, trad
Black Track 5.9 Rap after first pitch, trad
Bigfoot 5.10a Same rap as Black Track, bolts
Sleeper 5.9 Interesting overhang move, trad
Little Big Horn 5.10a Swinging on overhangs – walkoff, trad
Heatwave 5.10a Use small pieces between bolts
Great Red Book 5.8 Two pitches on red rock – hot, bolts & trad
Black Corridor Lots of climbs; starts at 5.9 Cool, mostly bolted
The Gallery Lots of harder sports climbs Hot, bolted
The Wall of Confusion Challenging sports climbs Bolted
To Bolt or Toupee 5.10c Fun to work out, bolts & trad
Monster Slank 5.13b Just fun to look at - easy start!, bolts

Longer Climbs (all trad with some bolts)
Frogland 5.8 6 pitches & scramble pitch, walkoff
Olive Oil  5.7 6 pitches, walkoff, sunny
Black Dagger 5.7+ 6 pitches & scramble, long approach & walkoff
Black Magic 5.8 4 pitches with 2 gully raps and walkoff
Lotta Balls  5.8 Similar to Black Magic, except for lotsa little balls
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8+ 9 pitches & raps, can be long & cold day
Dark Shadows 5.8 Stop at 4 pitches & rap, beautiful cool location
Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a Up to 12 pitches/10 raps, my top favourite
Sour Mash 5.10b Almost as good as Dream of Wild Turkeys, 6 pitches & rap
Yellow Brick Road 5.10c 5+ pitches and rap (or continue on Dream)
Triassic Sands 5.10c 6 pitches and easy walkoff (like Frogland)
Prince of Darkness 5.10c 6 pitches/65 bolts, worth doing once?
Epinephrine 5.9 Many pitches + 200 metre scramble - long day (& night?),
we walked off in 4 hours, but now can be rapped (at pitch 18?)
Bighorn Buttress 5.11 4 pitches, some doubtful rock & protection