Red Rocks Update - April 2003

by Kit Moore

While winter’s snow was still melting from Toronto’s streets, and Canada geese were thinking about returning north, I made my usual trip south to do some rock-climbing in Red Rocks Nevada and Joshua Tree California. This year’s trip was also my annual reunion with Sheila Broughton, an experienced climbing partner who now lives in Vancouver, where she and her full-time partner Dave climb much harder than I could ever hope to climb. Sheila still likes to get away for a week or two of traditional climbing with her oldest living climbing partner, and this year she suggested meeting in Red Rocks, which we did for a two-week trip this April.

After warming up on an old favourite climb called Ragged Edges, we started with Birdland, a 5-pitch climb that hasn’t yet made it into the guidebook, but should be in the next edition. Until then, here is a description of the approach, descent, and each of the 5 pitches:

Kit approaching Birdland (Red Rocks)Sheila on Birdland (Red Rocks)Birdland (5 pitches, 5.7+)
Approach: From the Pine Creek parking lot, walk up the trail towards Mescalito, then take the right (north) fork of Pine Creek. Head uphill, above the red band of rock, then head back east towards the Brass Wall and stop at Spectrum (which starts at a prominent right-facing dihedral that arches right to form a roof). Birdland begins on the black face just left of this dihedral.

Pitch 1: Climb the black face, then follow either of two obvious cracks to a ledge with a tree and belay bolts (5.6, 32 metres).

Pitch 2: Make interesting stemming and lieback moves up to a comfortable ledge with a tree and belay bolts (5.7, 34 metres).

Pitch 3: Climb up and right to a ramp/flake that leads up and left to a bolt. Step further left, then head up over a small overhang leading to belay bolts at a small ledge (5.7, 30 metres).

Pitch 4: Angle up and right, until reaching a vertical crack that leads up to a hanging bolt belay (5.7, 31 metres).

Pitch 5: Head straight up, then traverse right along a weakness to another vertical crack, which becomes a finger crack ending at a small ledge with two bolts (5.7+, 32 metres).

Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes, or with a single 70-metre rope.

Sheila starting Y2K (Red Rocks)Sheila and I both gave Birdland a few stars and would recommend it as a great alternative to Dark Shadows or Cat in the Hat when those climbs are crowded, as they often are. The next day we returned to Pine Creek Canyon to try another recommended 4-pitch climb called Y2K , which we enjoyed even more. Pitch 1 includes a short 5.10a crux at an overhang protected by a bolt. All four pitches are exciting for different reasons.

Taxman (Joshua Tree)After a couple more days of old favourites, we headed to Joshua Tree for a week of camping and climbing in the high desert. We made sure we allowed time to do my all-time favourite J Tree climb called Dangling Woo Li Master, a challenging, acrobatic 5.10a climb hidden away in the Bighorn Mating Grotto in Wonderland. We also tackled a classic 5.10a crack climb I’ve been hoping to try for several years – Taxman – now a new climb on my list of J Tree favourites. The approach was a bit steep and convoluted, but the climb was well worth the effort needed to get there.

After a week in J Tree, we returned to Las Vegas and I sadly said goodbye to Sheila, who had to return home to work and her many other responsibilities. I stayed to climb in Red Rocks for another four days of routes I’d never done before - all worth mentioning here. On my first day without Sheila, my old pal Wendell Broussard, who had also been my host for this visit, took me on a long hike into Calico Hills. Once there, he put me on two of his first ascents, Couldn’t Be Schmooter (5.9) and High Class Hoe (5.10b). If we’d had time, I would’ve attempted Winter Heat (5.11) as well, but I wisely left that tougher route for another trip (and maybe another leader!).

Wendell Broussard (Red Rocks)Next day, Wendell and I climbed Joe Herbst’s Pillar Talk, where I led the first pitch (5.7, using a variety of gear, including several large cams), and he led the second pitch graded 5.4R – easy but runout. On the rappel, our rope got jammed on another of Wendell’s first ascents, Sleeper (5.9), which gave me another lead for the day.

On my last two days, I was joined by one of Wendell’s regular partners, Mike Meoli, another good climber based in Red Rocks. We managed to find two climbs I hadn’t done before and would recommend – Dense Pack (5.10c) and Karate Crack (5.9+). The latter is a short but excellent overhanging crack located close to the road, and not yet included in the guidebook. Here is a description:

Karate Crack (1 pitch, 5.9+)

Karate Crack (Red Rocks)Description: A short but strenuous test piece for would-be hand-jammers. After a bouldery start, the route heads up a steep overhanging crack with some excellent handjams. Lots of protection. Take a selection of medium to large cams (up to 3 inches), and a few nuts or small cams for the lower part of the crack.

Approach: This sunny climb is located on the north (right) side of the road into Willow Spring Canyon, about 500 metres beyond the so-called Outhouse Wall. Park on the left side of the road in a parking area by a tourist sign. Look for a faint trail starting on the opposite side of the road, and leading up the hill for about 200 metres. This trail leads to the base of a prominent crack (actually two cracks to start) on a white overhanging wall, topped by a large pine tree.

Descent: Step back over boulders and walk off left along ledges before climbing down to the road.

The last climb of the trip was Plan F, a challenging 5.11 climb I’d successfully seconded several years ago. I was relieved to hear Mike say he wanted to lead it, which let me off the hook again. The crux is very thin moves on fingerholds that always seem slightly too small. This time my fingers couldn’t quite hold on at the crux, so I was glad the rope was ahead of me!

After 18 days of sun and warm weather, including 17 days of climbing, I was ready to return home for a break from climbing. Bon Echo is open again, the Niagara escarpment is warming up quickly, Seneca Rocks will soon be calling, and….